So dear friends, it’s been awhile. As you may or may not have gathered, a third of the country I am an expatriate in is underwater of varying degrees. Over one hundred industrial plants, many of them Japanese, are underwater, several of them will be completely unrecoverable. Not only is that a major blow to industry, it’s put a lot of Thais out of work and is going to hit the Thai economy really, really hard when all the damage is tallied up, especially as companies relocate to drier pastures.
The flooding began in July. Monsoon rains occur every year. Yes, we’ve had more rain this year, but there is so, so much more to it than that. So much more that I could write a doctoral thesis about it, but I’m really not that committed to the subject and I do enjoy this country enough that I want to be able to return. Instead of speculating or delving too deep into politics, allow me to tell you about my day, because it was ridiculous, and those make the best stories.
This morning my dear friend Liz, visiting from California, and I got up with the mission of finding bottled water and other staples. I have photos of the empty shelves at my 7/11. Updating photos has gotten pushed so far back, well, it’s just going to have to wait. So, mission for breakfast and water. We enjoyed western food at Ricky’s, a restaurant that wants to be Mexican, has Chinese décor and serves up Western breakfast. The owner was running out of supplies, and it going back home tomorrow because her mother is worried. With food supplies running low for the kitchen, why run a restaurant business in a semi flooded area any way?
After breakfast we noticed a truck unloading at 7/11. “Dude! Seven’s got a delivery, and they’ve got water bottles!” Liz and I make a beeline along with the rest of the mad dash. We score quite well. Eighteen 1-liters, and a smaller pack of ½ liter bottles. We schlep our booty home.
Now here’s where things get interesting. We discussed buying books to take to the flood victims’ makeshift classroom my colleague set up; but we didn’t get to that yet. Instead we head for Siam Paragon, because Liz had yet to see that, and after our slightly shaky ferry boat experiences going to and from Koh Samet, we needed some retail therapy. So we hailed a cab (the streets by us were dry at this point, unlike last night, by the way) and went to the mall. I showed off Gourmet Mart. I showed off Kinokuniya. And here’s where our real departure from the reality of the flood crisis all around us comes in.
We went upstairs, and I began the first session of having my underarm hair laser treated, while Liz got a manicure with Chanel nail polish. Yes, go ahead and read that line again. I could sit here and justify myself for a long time, and I will in fact mention the pain and the tech telling me she’d never had to turn the laser up that high before, “for Thai people lower number ok.” I did appreciate she just called to make sure the redness has faded. But really, I decided of all the things I’d throw money at, avoiding the pain of ingrown armpit hair is a noble goal. And it’s been a problem since age 14. OK, I did a little justifying there.
We then proceeded back downstairs, ate sushi bento sets, and stocked up on provisions in Gourmet Mart. The Pocari Sweat we’d double checked was available prior to our beauty pampering had magically disappeared and been restocked with the generic stuff. Those bastards! Right, flood crisis, it’s my own fault my underarms are throbbing, and I’m a spoiled white girl.
Rubber shoes were such a good investment. At this point, we’ve got to go back to spot where my second cell phone was stolen and see if we can persuade anyone to take us back to flood zone, as we’ve discovered my area turns into at night, like a werewolf or something. I agree to the exorbitant 200 baht tuk-tuk fee, because I’ve stood waiting for anyone to take me at that junction for over an hour and a half in normal weather. He balks at the barricades and doesn’t understand my directions to go around, which, granted I really should learn in Thai…so then we catch a bus, as police direct traffic through the barricade any way, and hoofed it in ankle to mid calf deep water until we hit a dry portion of Soi 4, and then back through more water by my apartment. The tailors always hawking suits and dresses offered to make us waterproof dresses. It was some much needed levity for all of us.
And then we came home, where I took a beer out of the fridge to make room for water, Liz started playing Civ on her iPhone, and I began composing this blog post while drinking said beer.
Welcome to my day of privilege and deprivation clash.
Showing posts with label tuk tuk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tuk tuk. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Songkran 2011
I’m hesitant to write this post, because no amount of written or spoken word can really capture Songkran. The videos on youtube, though closer, do not really do it justice either.
For I cannot convey in words how drenched I was, the sensation of the clay/chalk water smearing across my face, or the sheer elation of young and old alike, throwing buckets upon buckets of water on everyone spanning across an entire country in celebration of the Thai New Year. But I’ll try.
So for starters, it was nice that MacGyver took a break from working on Atomic Layer Deposition reactors over in Taiwan to come “play water” for Songkran. For those of you think I’m stretching it with that last sentence, I assure you I’m not.
So it was nice to have my back covered, though it made absolutely no difference in how quickly we both got soaked – notably by the elementary schoolers toting Doraemon water gun backpacks, very Ghostbuster-esque, just down my soi.
The main road between my apartment and school is frequently a traffic jam, notably when a member of the royal family wants to go somewhere and thus traffic is brought to a complete halt or the road is completely cleared for them to use it. That is certainly a new one – commute disruptions due to royal caravans.
But on the first day of Songkran, almost all shops are shuttered and everyone is on the street or sidewalk, music is blaring, old ladies are selling water guns off of tables, everyone is smiling and oh yeah, pouring buckets of water on you. Sometimes ice water. Old men have brought out power hoses, taxis are parked and blaring music, pick up trucks and motorbikes full of people ride by throwing water at each other on the road. The pickups often have entire extended families, or large groups of friends, and huge barrels of ‘ammo.’ People are riding around in tuk-tuks just to shoot water guns at each other. I’ll tell you what, being able to shoot super soakers out the sides of the tuk-tuk makes it much more fun.
MacGyver and I met up with Natalie at Central World for an attempt at breaking a Guinness World Record. I’m not sure which record we broke, because really, Songkran itself has got to be the world record for world’s largest water fight and it only grows every year, but whatever it was we hit the mark. Dance party plus world’s largest squirt gun bonanza? I think this is the best thing ever. EVER.
Aside from the water and dancing, there is the clay. I still have yet to figure out the significance of the clay/chalk stuff, but people carry the stuff around in small buckets and smile while smearing it across my cheeks with hearty “welcome to Thailand!” Cheers. The clay coats the streets, splatters cars and handprints are all over the place like cave paintings. I realize a couple of things about the chalk: one, foreign woman = higher priority target, two: you’re probably going to get it in your eyes and mouth. This wouldn’t be too big of a deal, as long as you don’t get the prickly heat powder spiked variety in your eyes. I’m wearing goggles next year, I don’t care if I look ridiculous. I already looked pretty ridiculous this year. And really, it’s not like adding some goofy accessories will make me any LESS of a high priority target.
Though most shops are shuttered and people have gone to spend the holiday with family, extra food stands and beer coolers have popped up amidst the sometimes ankle deep clay murk of the street. Sometimes people are considerate enough not to squirt you if you are eating.
I feel somewhat sorry for the poor tourists who have arrived in the middle of Songkran wholly unaware of it, trying to make their way down Khao Sarn Rd with their unprotected packs. The road is annoyingly difficult to navigate on a good day, absolutely impossible to do so now, especially without proper waterproof gear. At the same time though, Som Nam Na, grouchy old tourists that didn’t do their homework! It is kind of a big deal, Thai New Year.
For I cannot convey in words how drenched I was, the sensation of the clay/chalk water smearing across my face, or the sheer elation of young and old alike, throwing buckets upon buckets of water on everyone spanning across an entire country in celebration of the Thai New Year. But I’ll try.
So for starters, it was nice that MacGyver took a break from working on Atomic Layer Deposition reactors over in Taiwan to come “play water” for Songkran. For those of you think I’m stretching it with that last sentence, I assure you I’m not.
So it was nice to have my back covered, though it made absolutely no difference in how quickly we both got soaked – notably by the elementary schoolers toting Doraemon water gun backpacks, very Ghostbuster-esque, just down my soi.
The main road between my apartment and school is frequently a traffic jam, notably when a member of the royal family wants to go somewhere and thus traffic is brought to a complete halt or the road is completely cleared for them to use it. That is certainly a new one – commute disruptions due to royal caravans.
But on the first day of Songkran, almost all shops are shuttered and everyone is on the street or sidewalk, music is blaring, old ladies are selling water guns off of tables, everyone is smiling and oh yeah, pouring buckets of water on you. Sometimes ice water. Old men have brought out power hoses, taxis are parked and blaring music, pick up trucks and motorbikes full of people ride by throwing water at each other on the road. The pickups often have entire extended families, or large groups of friends, and huge barrels of ‘ammo.’ People are riding around in tuk-tuks just to shoot water guns at each other. I’ll tell you what, being able to shoot super soakers out the sides of the tuk-tuk makes it much more fun.
MacGyver and I met up with Natalie at Central World for an attempt at breaking a Guinness World Record. I’m not sure which record we broke, because really, Songkran itself has got to be the world record for world’s largest water fight and it only grows every year, but whatever it was we hit the mark. Dance party plus world’s largest squirt gun bonanza? I think this is the best thing ever. EVER.
Aside from the water and dancing, there is the clay. I still have yet to figure out the significance of the clay/chalk stuff, but people carry the stuff around in small buckets and smile while smearing it across my cheeks with hearty “welcome to Thailand!” Cheers. The clay coats the streets, splatters cars and handprints are all over the place like cave paintings. I realize a couple of things about the chalk: one, foreign woman = higher priority target, two: you’re probably going to get it in your eyes and mouth. This wouldn’t be too big of a deal, as long as you don’t get the prickly heat powder spiked variety in your eyes. I’m wearing goggles next year, I don’t care if I look ridiculous. I already looked pretty ridiculous this year. And really, it’s not like adding some goofy accessories will make me any LESS of a high priority target.
Though most shops are shuttered and people have gone to spend the holiday with family, extra food stands and beer coolers have popped up amidst the sometimes ankle deep clay murk of the street. Sometimes people are considerate enough not to squirt you if you are eating.
I feel somewhat sorry for the poor tourists who have arrived in the middle of Songkran wholly unaware of it, trying to make their way down Khao Sarn Rd with their unprotected packs. The road is annoyingly difficult to navigate on a good day, absolutely impossible to do so now, especially without proper waterproof gear. At the same time though, Som Nam Na, grouchy old tourists that didn’t do their homework! It is kind of a big deal, Thai New Year.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Stop Thinking Like an American
Stop Thinking Like an American!
The past few days this thought has been at the forefront of my mind; more so than such regulars as: no I don’t need tuk-tuk, no I don’t want to go to Ping-Pong Show, no I don’t need massage, I don’t have to answer “where you go?” and one of the most important phrases: ‘mai pet,’ (not spicy).
I try NOT to look in the mirror in the morning while applying mascara thinking putting on my makeup is the most important thing I will do today for what is expected of me at my job; and the female farang aesthetic that is favored. I am more than a cute white girl that speaks English and poses for staged school photos. At least I tell myself that, and some days are better than others. That’s just how it is.
It is normal practice for students’ parent’s to call them during class. Yesterday when one girl had her phone off, her mom called her friend’s phone to get in touch with her. I confiscate phones during the lesson when students are playing games or listening to music; but it’s quite the uphill battle – and I can’t confiscate the phone when their parent has just called them. Though I have answered a parent phone call that rang after it had already been confiscated for playing in class – that was fun. He had to call his father back and speak to him in Thai explaining his farang English teacher took his phone for playing in class. Am I sure he actually said that? His classmates confirmed, but who knows. I’ve also been advised by a few people NOT to learn Thai, for the reason that it will detract from my “oh I’m foreign I don’t know!” excuse, and also allow me to know when people are gossiping about me, because it’s generally assumed farangs don’t know Thai. Whatever, I speak Nit Noy (little bit); and I don’t care if I overhear gossip about me. Lying to a person’s face is basic cultural practice in Thailand any way, thought plenty of Thais shun this – it’s pretty standard.
I’ve retreated to McDonald’s just outside the university a few times as opposed to the mysterious school lunch of the day. At least I have some idea of the horrors I’m subjecting my gastrointestinal system to with the Golden Arches. I will also note that not every McD’s features the ‘Double Big Mac,’ I’ve only encountered it at the store right next to school so far. Also – Democracy Monument, road, McDonald’s. Watch the Red Shirt Protest (much more relaxed and less frequent since this past spring, and often at a location besides Democracy Monument now) while enjoying a double cheeseburger in AirCon. Also, Democracy Monument was designed by an Italian that immigrated to Thailand, he was bestowed with a Thai name at some point as some honor – anyway Thailand and Italy get along alright from what I can tell. Sometimes Thailand tries to be Italy, sometimes it wants to be Japan, sometimes it wants to be China…it’s a chameleon. Another aside on the Red Shirts – they burned down part of the largest mall in Bangkok this past spring. Talk about antithesis of political apathy; let’s oust the government and burn down the consumerist establishment that suppresses the proletariat with its bourgeoisie merchandise! Too much allusion to revolutionary France? Yeah, I thought so too but I find the whole mess quite entertaining. You can’t say the Thais lack passion.
I consider myself an adventurous eater, but I’m not keen on what us foreigners have come to call ‘gloopy soup,’ or rather those who came before me call it that so I do as well, which is composed of the gas bladders of fish, a near tasteless broth that is better described as the consistency of brown rubber cement, and top it off with the jello blood cubes for good measure. No amount of spices, herbs or noodles can save that soup, if you can call it soup, especially when created by a school cafeteria. I’m told many of the Thai teachers retreat to eat elsewhere for this particular gem as well. Luckily for the students, they have other options available for purchase – such as breaded chicken tenders (pretty good actually), boiled quail eggs wrapped in wontons fried on a stick, “sausages” (I have yet to see any Thai sausage that didn’t look like a hot dog, or scarier version thereof, except for Isan sausage), ice cream, and other such delicacies. I’m suspect of the school sushi pack offering. If I’m going to get food poisoning, I’d prefer not over taking a gamble on something paid for from the school cafeteria. The basic cafeteria meal is 600 baht per semester, not pay by meal. That’s about 20 dollars for the whole semester, which probably also helps explain some things. The other additional snacks are pay options.
The frequency of the water not working has drastically decreased, but not vanished, as construction on various projects is still ongoing. Toilet paper has reappeared in the bathrooms as well, though once the school runs out for the day, the week, or the semester you’re just on your own. I now have a stash of Kleenex packs in my desk (and I actually have a desk now!). It is a bit easier than having to remember to carry in a supply daily. There are even larger packs specifically designed for people to cart around with them for the restroom, and you can find these items in any 7/11. I stopped counting the number of 7/11s I walk by on a daily basis.
Students can pretty much go to the bathroom whenever, and since there are not nearly enough toilets for everyone, they go in packs and take 15-20 minutes of class to do it. They’ve been pretty shocked when I’ve told them no, wait a minute instead of immediately permitting them to leave the classroom. I’m also slowly training my charges to say “may I go to the bathroom?” instead of “teacher may I go toilet?” Yes, this is Thailand, “just accept it,” but some minor things I can change, and this is one of them. I tried restroom, but the L versus R thing makes bathroom much easier for them to say. Sometimes it sounds slightly like bathloom, which seems better than lestloom; only one R/L switch instead of two. But the struggles with pronunciation vary from student to student.
There seems to be a penchant for Christmas style strands of lights around town year round, but I am noticing the usual amount is multiplying as Christmas and New Years approach. We do actually get some time off for ‘International New Years,’ though none off for Christmas, officially. In fact my poor students are beginning midterms tomorrow, Christmas Eve – 7 exams a day, 3 days of exams, two days off to study in between (teachers report to work on marking). Today we have ‘regular’ class, but since approximately 8 students out of 30 are here, it’s free time/study time and I’m babysitting. Or just making sure they don’t burn down the building. Student supervision is much more lax here. Theft really isn’t a problem either, but then again, everyone here (at this school) is wealthy enough to have the exact phone, mp3 player and jacket they want. There is some fighting, bullying, and as previously mentioned, my boss is quite active in sabotaging student relationships.
Cheating on class work is a huge problem, in fact the exams will be given with two grade levels mixed up in a single classroom taking different exams – it would be silly to copy off of an M. 1 student for your M. 3 exam, now wouldn’t it? Copying and plagiarism aren’t really viewed as a problem for things other than exams. I’m working on that with my students– but again, T.I.T., just get used to it is the general view I’ve been met with on this. I wonder if the students will be allowed to keep their cell phones during the exam – that would pretty much defeat the point as they can text each other answers under their desks. They probably do. Though I feel sorry for an 11 year old subjected to 21 exams in under a week.
Besides learning about Thailand, I’ve learned a lot about South Africa, Britain, Germany and Holland from my coworkers. It’s interesting when I have a “what?” moment after learning something about one of these countries; similar to the reaction I get from some of them when describing something about America that they did not know. Though they already knew about our Health Care nightmares, and rest assured, America has a terrible reputation abroad for Health Care, as confirmed by every non-American I’ve polled so far. Yes, that’s a limited sample, but it doesn’t say a lot for our image abroad does it? One of the Thais in the office that worked in Wisconsin for 6 months refused to go to the doctor while in the U.S. because she was afraid of how much she would have to pay. Sounds like college “do I go to the hospital or not?” woes all over again.
I still applaud Purdue for making ambulances available to students in the dorms free of charge – imagine the deaths by alcohol poisoning and neglected illness there would be otherwise. I know this from the semester of the unfortunate stomach flu the week after all four wisdom teeth were extracted; and arguing with the residence hall staff and concerned floor mates that my mom would kill me if we had to deal with ambulances charges (this was day 4 of being unable to keep food or water down); and I conceded once they told me it was free for students, though the medic ended up looking me over and saying the hospital would just send me right back since I’d just been in the outpatient ER for a liter of IV saline that afternoon. In fact my mom DID freak out about the cost when I told her about this until I reassured her Purdue covers the ambulance for the dorms.
I’m not going to laud the health care systems of other countries against the U.S. system, for example the fact remains here that disfigured people sit on the street and beg for a few baht; nothing is accessible to everyone in any country, regardless of the hype.
I’m sitting in the computer lab babysitting my 8 students currently, but since my computer is in the shop, this will likely be the last post until at least after Christmas. No promises of a time table on that. Also, apologies for the limited email communication, especially the update list, though I hope my previous posts on technology woes and generalized rant help shed some light on that mess. So Merry Christmas or Marry Chriastmas if you prefer, Happy New Year and all that jazz.
The past few days this thought has been at the forefront of my mind; more so than such regulars as: no I don’t need tuk-tuk, no I don’t want to go to Ping-Pong Show, no I don’t need massage, I don’t have to answer “where you go?” and one of the most important phrases: ‘mai pet,’ (not spicy).
I try NOT to look in the mirror in the morning while applying mascara thinking putting on my makeup is the most important thing I will do today for what is expected of me at my job; and the female farang aesthetic that is favored. I am more than a cute white girl that speaks English and poses for staged school photos. At least I tell myself that, and some days are better than others. That’s just how it is.
It is normal practice for students’ parent’s to call them during class. Yesterday when one girl had her phone off, her mom called her friend’s phone to get in touch with her. I confiscate phones during the lesson when students are playing games or listening to music; but it’s quite the uphill battle – and I can’t confiscate the phone when their parent has just called them. Though I have answered a parent phone call that rang after it had already been confiscated for playing in class – that was fun. He had to call his father back and speak to him in Thai explaining his farang English teacher took his phone for playing in class. Am I sure he actually said that? His classmates confirmed, but who knows. I’ve also been advised by a few people NOT to learn Thai, for the reason that it will detract from my “oh I’m foreign I don’t know!” excuse, and also allow me to know when people are gossiping about me, because it’s generally assumed farangs don’t know Thai. Whatever, I speak Nit Noy (little bit); and I don’t care if I overhear gossip about me. Lying to a person’s face is basic cultural practice in Thailand any way, thought plenty of Thais shun this – it’s pretty standard.
I’ve retreated to McDonald’s just outside the university a few times as opposed to the mysterious school lunch of the day. At least I have some idea of the horrors I’m subjecting my gastrointestinal system to with the Golden Arches. I will also note that not every McD’s features the ‘Double Big Mac,’ I’ve only encountered it at the store right next to school so far. Also – Democracy Monument, road, McDonald’s. Watch the Red Shirt Protest (much more relaxed and less frequent since this past spring, and often at a location besides Democracy Monument now) while enjoying a double cheeseburger in AirCon. Also, Democracy Monument was designed by an Italian that immigrated to Thailand, he was bestowed with a Thai name at some point as some honor – anyway Thailand and Italy get along alright from what I can tell. Sometimes Thailand tries to be Italy, sometimes it wants to be Japan, sometimes it wants to be China…it’s a chameleon. Another aside on the Red Shirts – they burned down part of the largest mall in Bangkok this past spring. Talk about antithesis of political apathy; let’s oust the government and burn down the consumerist establishment that suppresses the proletariat with its bourgeoisie merchandise! Too much allusion to revolutionary France? Yeah, I thought so too but I find the whole mess quite entertaining. You can’t say the Thais lack passion.
I consider myself an adventurous eater, but I’m not keen on what us foreigners have come to call ‘gloopy soup,’ or rather those who came before me call it that so I do as well, which is composed of the gas bladders of fish, a near tasteless broth that is better described as the consistency of brown rubber cement, and top it off with the jello blood cubes for good measure. No amount of spices, herbs or noodles can save that soup, if you can call it soup, especially when created by a school cafeteria. I’m told many of the Thai teachers retreat to eat elsewhere for this particular gem as well. Luckily for the students, they have other options available for purchase – such as breaded chicken tenders (pretty good actually), boiled quail eggs wrapped in wontons fried on a stick, “sausages” (I have yet to see any Thai sausage that didn’t look like a hot dog, or scarier version thereof, except for Isan sausage), ice cream, and other such delicacies. I’m suspect of the school sushi pack offering. If I’m going to get food poisoning, I’d prefer not over taking a gamble on something paid for from the school cafeteria. The basic cafeteria meal is 600 baht per semester, not pay by meal. That’s about 20 dollars for the whole semester, which probably also helps explain some things. The other additional snacks are pay options.
The frequency of the water not working has drastically decreased, but not vanished, as construction on various projects is still ongoing. Toilet paper has reappeared in the bathrooms as well, though once the school runs out for the day, the week, or the semester you’re just on your own. I now have a stash of Kleenex packs in my desk (and I actually have a desk now!). It is a bit easier than having to remember to carry in a supply daily. There are even larger packs specifically designed for people to cart around with them for the restroom, and you can find these items in any 7/11. I stopped counting the number of 7/11s I walk by on a daily basis.
Students can pretty much go to the bathroom whenever, and since there are not nearly enough toilets for everyone, they go in packs and take 15-20 minutes of class to do it. They’ve been pretty shocked when I’ve told them no, wait a minute instead of immediately permitting them to leave the classroom. I’m also slowly training my charges to say “may I go to the bathroom?” instead of “teacher may I go toilet?” Yes, this is Thailand, “just accept it,” but some minor things I can change, and this is one of them. I tried restroom, but the L versus R thing makes bathroom much easier for them to say. Sometimes it sounds slightly like bathloom, which seems better than lestloom; only one R/L switch instead of two. But the struggles with pronunciation vary from student to student.
There seems to be a penchant for Christmas style strands of lights around town year round, but I am noticing the usual amount is multiplying as Christmas and New Years approach. We do actually get some time off for ‘International New Years,’ though none off for Christmas, officially. In fact my poor students are beginning midterms tomorrow, Christmas Eve – 7 exams a day, 3 days of exams, two days off to study in between (teachers report to work on marking). Today we have ‘regular’ class, but since approximately 8 students out of 30 are here, it’s free time/study time and I’m babysitting. Or just making sure they don’t burn down the building. Student supervision is much more lax here. Theft really isn’t a problem either, but then again, everyone here (at this school) is wealthy enough to have the exact phone, mp3 player and jacket they want. There is some fighting, bullying, and as previously mentioned, my boss is quite active in sabotaging student relationships.
Cheating on class work is a huge problem, in fact the exams will be given with two grade levels mixed up in a single classroom taking different exams – it would be silly to copy off of an M. 1 student for your M. 3 exam, now wouldn’t it? Copying and plagiarism aren’t really viewed as a problem for things other than exams. I’m working on that with my students– but again, T.I.T., just get used to it is the general view I’ve been met with on this. I wonder if the students will be allowed to keep their cell phones during the exam – that would pretty much defeat the point as they can text each other answers under their desks. They probably do. Though I feel sorry for an 11 year old subjected to 21 exams in under a week.
Besides learning about Thailand, I’ve learned a lot about South Africa, Britain, Germany and Holland from my coworkers. It’s interesting when I have a “what?” moment after learning something about one of these countries; similar to the reaction I get from some of them when describing something about America that they did not know. Though they already knew about our Health Care nightmares, and rest assured, America has a terrible reputation abroad for Health Care, as confirmed by every non-American I’ve polled so far. Yes, that’s a limited sample, but it doesn’t say a lot for our image abroad does it? One of the Thais in the office that worked in Wisconsin for 6 months refused to go to the doctor while in the U.S. because she was afraid of how much she would have to pay. Sounds like college “do I go to the hospital or not?” woes all over again.
I still applaud Purdue for making ambulances available to students in the dorms free of charge – imagine the deaths by alcohol poisoning and neglected illness there would be otherwise. I know this from the semester of the unfortunate stomach flu the week after all four wisdom teeth were extracted; and arguing with the residence hall staff and concerned floor mates that my mom would kill me if we had to deal with ambulances charges (this was day 4 of being unable to keep food or water down); and I conceded once they told me it was free for students, though the medic ended up looking me over and saying the hospital would just send me right back since I’d just been in the outpatient ER for a liter of IV saline that afternoon. In fact my mom DID freak out about the cost when I told her about this until I reassured her Purdue covers the ambulance for the dorms.
I’m not going to laud the health care systems of other countries against the U.S. system, for example the fact remains here that disfigured people sit on the street and beg for a few baht; nothing is accessible to everyone in any country, regardless of the hype.
I’m sitting in the computer lab babysitting my 8 students currently, but since my computer is in the shop, this will likely be the last post until at least after Christmas. No promises of a time table on that. Also, apologies for the limited email communication, especially the update list, though I hope my previous posts on technology woes and generalized rant help shed some light on that mess. So Merry Christmas or Marry Chriastmas if you prefer, Happy New Year and all that jazz.
Monday, December 13, 2010
China Town/India Town (Nov 28)
Went and explored India town and Chinatown with Mei. India town = endless rows of places to buy wedding favors, wedding photos, wedding dresses, fabric for making wedding dresses, wedding photo boutiques, wedding scrap book shops – if you need to throw an Indian wedding in Bangkok you’ll be set; provided you’re not terribly claustrophobic in navigating the sidewalk. We also stopped in at a great little Indian restaurant. I left next to nothing uneaten; I was apparently quite hungry by the time we got there. I hadn’t eaten much the previous two days, had been feeling ill those two days, that probably had a lot to do with it. I was a geek and took a photo of the sign (complete with the address), so I’ll be able to go back.
Chinatown was neat, but not quite what I was expecting. It didn’t help matters that a whole bunch of it was closed on this particular Sunday, which I guess is not normally the case. Guess I’m a little spoiled having just been to China a few months back. If I needed any sort of Chinese herb I could buy it, and in bulk if I want, here. We tried to check out a Chinese temple of some sort, but some jerks were blocking the way inside with their tuk-tuk for seemingly no apparent reason, as in absolutely could not squeeze our way around. I’m growing less and less fond of tuk-tuks by the day, especially the constant “where you go?” cat call. Away from you overcharging scheming jerk. I usually respond with silence as opposed to the thoughts going through my mind.
Other observations: monk impersonators troll Khao Sarn Road, at hours of the day that monks do not normally make rounds for alms, and prey on foreigners that don’t know this. Monks generally go for alms in the morning, are not pushy, and generally prefer food, etc. instead of money. So Mr. I’m asking for alms in the middle of the late afternoon, I’ve got a bowl for money, and I won’t take it out of your face until you throw two baht in even after you’ve motioned you have empty pockets, and then I’ll have a little hissy fit about it being only two baht – yeah that behavior isn’t very monk like, unfortunately the give away hissy fit occurred after giving the money, fortunately it was only two baht. Next time he’s not even getting 2 baht now that I realize the scam. Jerk. Apparently even Thai people are sometimes duped by monk impersonators that go around asking for alms (though these scam artists do it at the correct time of day to dupe Thais) but aren’t actually following the true Buddhist way or monk lifestyle, they just want handouts.
Chinatown was neat, but not quite what I was expecting. It didn’t help matters that a whole bunch of it was closed on this particular Sunday, which I guess is not normally the case. Guess I’m a little spoiled having just been to China a few months back. If I needed any sort of Chinese herb I could buy it, and in bulk if I want, here. We tried to check out a Chinese temple of some sort, but some jerks were blocking the way inside with their tuk-tuk for seemingly no apparent reason, as in absolutely could not squeeze our way around. I’m growing less and less fond of tuk-tuks by the day, especially the constant “where you go?” cat call. Away from you overcharging scheming jerk. I usually respond with silence as opposed to the thoughts going through my mind.
Other observations: monk impersonators troll Khao Sarn Road, at hours of the day that monks do not normally make rounds for alms, and prey on foreigners that don’t know this. Monks generally go for alms in the morning, are not pushy, and generally prefer food, etc. instead of money. So Mr. I’m asking for alms in the middle of the late afternoon, I’ve got a bowl for money, and I won’t take it out of your face until you throw two baht in even after you’ve motioned you have empty pockets, and then I’ll have a little hissy fit about it being only two baht – yeah that behavior isn’t very monk like, unfortunately the give away hissy fit occurred after giving the money, fortunately it was only two baht. Next time he’s not even getting 2 baht now that I realize the scam. Jerk. Apparently even Thai people are sometimes duped by monk impersonators that go around asking for alms (though these scam artists do it at the correct time of day to dupe Thais) but aren’t actually following the true Buddhist way or monk lifestyle, they just want handouts.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Loy Krathong
So, one of the biggest Thai festivals of the year took place on Sunday evening. And though I may have mentioned it, I have not made a big deal out of the fact that I have been sick this past week. However, on Saturday and Sunday, though the antibiotics had taken care of my sinus infection, the initial cold virus swooped in for a comeback. As such, much of my weekend was spent asleep or half dazed and over-medicated.
On Saturday, after finally getting out of bed around 3:30pm, I decided I must make the trek back to MBK to sort out a phone. Previously I praised MBK's ability to hack, crack and otherwise get phones to work. However, we were unaware that besides all that, the hand-me-down phone we had also included a broken microphone. Theorizing that a repair of that nature would be slightly more costly, it was time to admit defeat and purchase a phone.
So I found my way to the bus stop to get to MBK and rode the bus to and from MBK successfully on my own. With only one pushy tuk-tuk driver to tell off. Tuk-tuks are for tourists. They are pushy scam artists and if you are white they never leave you alone. The going 'scam' for tuk-tuk drivers is to offer a "flat rate" fee of 150 baht. Fare for an air-conditioned taxi is often 1/3 of that. So this particular tuk-tuk driver outside MBK thought he would approach me, get ME to name a price (no, you name a starting price), and then thought he would ask for 200 baht. I may be new but I'm not that naive. I walked away and caught the bus for 8 baht.
I do however, wish that I could brag as such about my phone purchase. Another lesson learned: don't try to haggle when you're brain fogged, sick and medicated. It severely hampers your bartering skills and lowers your guard for how much you are willing to pay just to get out of the human chaos. Time and place utility though I suppose, I needed a working phone. So I ended up with a second hand nokia for 1,500 baht, which is about $50 U.S. Not bad, all things considered. But upon further inspection I decided I'd probably been overcharged. Another English teacher, who is half Thai and speaks Thai - so she doesn't have to deal with the tourist treatment nearly as much - got the same phone second hand for 900 baht ($30.07). The ladies in the office helped me look it up - NEW the phone should cost 1,180 baht ($39.43). Well crap. Next time, I will ask one of the Thai ladies in the office to go with me and help - they are more than happy to. I'll still just be proud of myself for navigating the bus and avoiding the tuk tuk driver. I was quite determined to travel downtown unassisted. And, the phone does work.
So, Loy Krathong. I'm taking a lot of information from wikipedia and observation here. Basically - the majority of Bangkok converges on the river to release "krathong" out into the water. A Krathong is made up of banana leaves, flowers, incense and candles - or more recently bread (dissolves and the fish eat it, more environmentally friendly). It is supposed to honor the river spirits, ask for forgiveness from the river and bring good luck. It is kind of a conglomeration of Buddhism, Hinduism and the Thai animist beliefs of various tribes - so actually pinpointing one meaning for the festival is impossible. Loy Krathong also coincides with the Lanna (northern Thai) festival of Yi Peng, where paper lanterns are lit and sent up into the sky to make merit. The hot air from the flame propels the paper lantern up, or at least in theory - I saw several sink that had to be put out by festival goers down below those launching Yi Peng off the bridge. So, although Loy Krathong comes from the capital, and Yi Peng comes from the north, today they are both celebrated concurrently across the country. Chiang Mai is supposed to be the best Loy Krathong/Yi Peng festival - so at some point I would like to see it there. However that's not to say the Bangkok version wasn't a show.
So, most of Sunday I spent in bed wishing my cold would go away. I got up to do laundry, got up to hang it out to dry, got up to go get some food - and laid back down after each trip. So around 8pm I decided that I wasn't going to let the fact that I felt awful keep me from seeing one of the best festivals of the year. Dose of Paracetamol (Acetaminophen in the U.S.), some water and a hearty dose of hubris and I was off. Not actually knowing how to get there, feeling kinda of blah and thinking this is an important venture, I decided to hail a taxi. Not a tuk-tuk, but generally get in a taxi, say the name of the place you want to go, done. However I forgot to consider a couple of things. One: when there is traffic, as in when there is a festival, walking will almost always be faster than anything on four wheels. Two: Bangkok is quite similar to West Lafayette in it's curse of one-way roads, something I had not noticed as a pedestrian. And Three: simply getting in a taxi and asking to go to the river isn't very clear, since there are quite a few points on the river you can go to.
So, in my first cab, we went toward one of the larger bridges, saw some people with Krathongs and decided that was a good spot. I did get a nice view out across the river as we crossed the bridge. My driver spoke a little English, was impressed that I could count to ten in Thai (poorly) and attempted to teach me the phrases "I love you" and "I like you" in Thai. The trip meter said 59 baht, so I handed him 60 baht. He handed me back 20 baht and a slip of paper with his phone number and an Americanized name on it. Uncertain how to respond to that, I said thank you, smiled, probably giggled and placed the number and change in my wallet. He drove off and I began exploring the bridge and the area underneath it where people were launching krathong into the river. I realized 1) This was not the big event, this was a smaller gathering and 2) I was pretty much the only farang around. I attempted to walk up on the bridge to get a better view of the river, and was whistled back down by a Thai police officer. People had been walking on the bridge only moments prior. Alright, well now what.
I could see the Yi Peng floating up into the sky in the distance, so I started walking towards them. However after a couple of blocks, I decided that was futile, walked back and hailed another taxi. So the cost of a little adventure involves more than one taxi, it could be worse.
My second taxi driver spoke no English. He did understand Loy Krathong though, and managed to get me quite close to the heart of the commotion at the Rama VIII Bridge (the one I have photos of already). Eventually he motioned to me to get out and walk because of the horrid traffic jam. I paid him and got out of the taxi and joined the shoulder to shoulder swarm of people. People were walking in between cars, buses and motorbikes because traffic was not moving at all. It reminded me of the people swarming toward the bridge in the new War of the Worlds movie, and I pushed that slightly disconcerting idea out of my mind. Thankfully, crowd control is often managed by the Thai cultural idea that you should not show anger or lose your temper. So despite the shoulder to shoulder crowding, there isn't really a panic or mad rush to make it dangerous, people remain patient. Fingers crossed. I got up to the main festival area - lined with food and drink vendors, large krathongs made for a contest, beggars, beauty pageant contestants and people of all ages. I purchased a bottle of water - was asked "where you from?" USA. "Oh! Your country very good!" I appreciated that.
I made my way to the river bank, pretty sure I wandered straight through the 'back stage' area of the beauty pageant, and a Thai man helped hoist me up over the stone wall separating the river from the bank. I got pictures right there of people launching their Krathong, and several people swimming in the murky depths. A wave rolled up and splashed my feet, I decided to find some higher ground after a few photos. So I turned back around and turned my attention to climbing the Rama VIII bridge - the main festivities were occurring beneath it. A staircase on either side of the bridge was shoulder to shoulder with people going up and down. I made my way up and walked along the pedestrian portion of the bridge where people were launching their Yi Ping. There were many Thais with good cameras, probably many from the arts university - and I was envious of them. I also wished I knew more Thai so I could have a conversation with them. I managed to get some decent photos with my camera none-the-less. I think there is also a couple's aspect to sending up the Yi Peng, because many couples were launching them together - some with the message "I love you" written on them. But that could be a modern imposition on the original holiday - I'm not sure. I enjoyed just sitting on the guard rail between the road and the pedestrian crosswalk and watching people launch their Yi Peng. It was peaceful and reminded me why I long to travel and see these things. It was great just to wander around and observe things at my own leisure. Finally, I decided I had better return home. So I tried to make my way to the other side of the Rama VIII bridge to hail a taxi going towards my apartment. At this point, I was actually all the way over in Nonthaburi, the suburb of Bangkok across the river (and the larger Loy Krathong gathering point). However navigating the staircase was even more crowded and slow going - it seemed a fool's errand to try and scale the stairs on the opposite side after finally reaching the bottom of the first staircase.
So, I wandered back through the vendors (by the way, if you can sell it, it was for sale on the street that night). I did not partake of the food, already feeling under the weather and not sure I trusted the food - or at least my stomach's ability to handle it, and went about looking for a taxi. Of course, in the stand still traffic with many others looking for a taxi, this was nearly impossible. So I looked toward the motor bike taxi operators. The first declined, and said as a farang, better to get a taxi. I think he was afraid I was going to freak out riding the motor bike - or he just didn't want to travel that far. The second motor bike driver I found agreed, though maybe slightly overcharged, at that point my headache was going full throttle from all the lights and I just wanted to get home. I still think there was some sort of divine intervention keeping me from having an absolute claustrophobic panic attack in the middle of that festival - or maybe I was just too out of it already from being sick. It was 100 baht for the motor bike ride straight to my apartments, not too bad considering the motor bike can duck and weave around traffic and get you where you are going much faster than the four-wheeled beasts. And a heck of a lot better than the tuk-tuk driver trying to charge twice that for less than a third the distance I traveled on the motor bike. We drove over yet another large bridge - I've got my north and south all mixed up so I can't say which direction I was from Rama VIII, but I got yet another view of all of the lights out across the river driving past. It was exhilarating having the wind rip past, nearly shutting my eyelids for me.
After all that, I took some more cold medicine and called it a night. And quite a night it was. My goal now: to save up and purchase a digital SLR before next year's Loy Krathong festival. I would love to see the festival in Chiang Mai. Also preferrably to not be sick during the festival - but the timing of getting sick is hard to coordinate.
On Saturday, after finally getting out of bed around 3:30pm, I decided I must make the trek back to MBK to sort out a phone. Previously I praised MBK's ability to hack, crack and otherwise get phones to work. However, we were unaware that besides all that, the hand-me-down phone we had also included a broken microphone. Theorizing that a repair of that nature would be slightly more costly, it was time to admit defeat and purchase a phone.
So I found my way to the bus stop to get to MBK and rode the bus to and from MBK successfully on my own. With only one pushy tuk-tuk driver to tell off. Tuk-tuks are for tourists. They are pushy scam artists and if you are white they never leave you alone. The going 'scam' for tuk-tuk drivers is to offer a "flat rate" fee of 150 baht. Fare for an air-conditioned taxi is often 1/3 of that. So this particular tuk-tuk driver outside MBK thought he would approach me, get ME to name a price (no, you name a starting price), and then thought he would ask for 200 baht. I may be new but I'm not that naive. I walked away and caught the bus for 8 baht.
I do however, wish that I could brag as such about my phone purchase. Another lesson learned: don't try to haggle when you're brain fogged, sick and medicated. It severely hampers your bartering skills and lowers your guard for how much you are willing to pay just to get out of the human chaos. Time and place utility though I suppose, I needed a working phone. So I ended up with a second hand nokia for 1,500 baht, which is about $50 U.S. Not bad, all things considered. But upon further inspection I decided I'd probably been overcharged. Another English teacher, who is half Thai and speaks Thai - so she doesn't have to deal with the tourist treatment nearly as much - got the same phone second hand for 900 baht ($30.07). The ladies in the office helped me look it up - NEW the phone should cost 1,180 baht ($39.43). Well crap. Next time, I will ask one of the Thai ladies in the office to go with me and help - they are more than happy to. I'll still just be proud of myself for navigating the bus and avoiding the tuk tuk driver. I was quite determined to travel downtown unassisted. And, the phone does work.
So, Loy Krathong. I'm taking a lot of information from wikipedia and observation here. Basically - the majority of Bangkok converges on the river to release "krathong" out into the water. A Krathong is made up of banana leaves, flowers, incense and candles - or more recently bread (dissolves and the fish eat it, more environmentally friendly). It is supposed to honor the river spirits, ask for forgiveness from the river and bring good luck. It is kind of a conglomeration of Buddhism, Hinduism and the Thai animist beliefs of various tribes - so actually pinpointing one meaning for the festival is impossible. Loy Krathong also coincides with the Lanna (northern Thai) festival of Yi Peng, where paper lanterns are lit and sent up into the sky to make merit. The hot air from the flame propels the paper lantern up, or at least in theory - I saw several sink that had to be put out by festival goers down below those launching Yi Peng off the bridge. So, although Loy Krathong comes from the capital, and Yi Peng comes from the north, today they are both celebrated concurrently across the country. Chiang Mai is supposed to be the best Loy Krathong/Yi Peng festival - so at some point I would like to see it there. However that's not to say the Bangkok version wasn't a show.
So, most of Sunday I spent in bed wishing my cold would go away. I got up to do laundry, got up to hang it out to dry, got up to go get some food - and laid back down after each trip. So around 8pm I decided that I wasn't going to let the fact that I felt awful keep me from seeing one of the best festivals of the year. Dose of Paracetamol (Acetaminophen in the U.S.), some water and a hearty dose of hubris and I was off. Not actually knowing how to get there, feeling kinda of blah and thinking this is an important venture, I decided to hail a taxi. Not a tuk-tuk, but generally get in a taxi, say the name of the place you want to go, done. However I forgot to consider a couple of things. One: when there is traffic, as in when there is a festival, walking will almost always be faster than anything on four wheels. Two: Bangkok is quite similar to West Lafayette in it's curse of one-way roads, something I had not noticed as a pedestrian. And Three: simply getting in a taxi and asking to go to the river isn't very clear, since there are quite a few points on the river you can go to.
So, in my first cab, we went toward one of the larger bridges, saw some people with Krathongs and decided that was a good spot. I did get a nice view out across the river as we crossed the bridge. My driver spoke a little English, was impressed that I could count to ten in Thai (poorly) and attempted to teach me the phrases "I love you" and "I like you" in Thai. The trip meter said 59 baht, so I handed him 60 baht. He handed me back 20 baht and a slip of paper with his phone number and an Americanized name on it. Uncertain how to respond to that, I said thank you, smiled, probably giggled and placed the number and change in my wallet. He drove off and I began exploring the bridge and the area underneath it where people were launching krathong into the river. I realized 1) This was not the big event, this was a smaller gathering and 2) I was pretty much the only farang around. I attempted to walk up on the bridge to get a better view of the river, and was whistled back down by a Thai police officer. People had been walking on the bridge only moments prior. Alright, well now what.
I could see the Yi Peng floating up into the sky in the distance, so I started walking towards them. However after a couple of blocks, I decided that was futile, walked back and hailed another taxi. So the cost of a little adventure involves more than one taxi, it could be worse.
My second taxi driver spoke no English. He did understand Loy Krathong though, and managed to get me quite close to the heart of the commotion at the Rama VIII Bridge (the one I have photos of already). Eventually he motioned to me to get out and walk because of the horrid traffic jam. I paid him and got out of the taxi and joined the shoulder to shoulder swarm of people. People were walking in between cars, buses and motorbikes because traffic was not moving at all. It reminded me of the people swarming toward the bridge in the new War of the Worlds movie, and I pushed that slightly disconcerting idea out of my mind. Thankfully, crowd control is often managed by the Thai cultural idea that you should not show anger or lose your temper. So despite the shoulder to shoulder crowding, there isn't really a panic or mad rush to make it dangerous, people remain patient. Fingers crossed. I got up to the main festival area - lined with food and drink vendors, large krathongs made for a contest, beggars, beauty pageant contestants and people of all ages. I purchased a bottle of water - was asked "where you from?" USA. "Oh! Your country very good!" I appreciated that.
I made my way to the river bank, pretty sure I wandered straight through the 'back stage' area of the beauty pageant, and a Thai man helped hoist me up over the stone wall separating the river from the bank. I got pictures right there of people launching their Krathong, and several people swimming in the murky depths. A wave rolled up and splashed my feet, I decided to find some higher ground after a few photos. So I turned back around and turned my attention to climbing the Rama VIII bridge - the main festivities were occurring beneath it. A staircase on either side of the bridge was shoulder to shoulder with people going up and down. I made my way up and walked along the pedestrian portion of the bridge where people were launching their Yi Ping. There were many Thais with good cameras, probably many from the arts university - and I was envious of them. I also wished I knew more Thai so I could have a conversation with them. I managed to get some decent photos with my camera none-the-less. I think there is also a couple's aspect to sending up the Yi Peng, because many couples were launching them together - some with the message "I love you" written on them. But that could be a modern imposition on the original holiday - I'm not sure. I enjoyed just sitting on the guard rail between the road and the pedestrian crosswalk and watching people launch their Yi Peng. It was peaceful and reminded me why I long to travel and see these things. It was great just to wander around and observe things at my own leisure. Finally, I decided I had better return home. So I tried to make my way to the other side of the Rama VIII bridge to hail a taxi going towards my apartment. At this point, I was actually all the way over in Nonthaburi, the suburb of Bangkok across the river (and the larger Loy Krathong gathering point). However navigating the staircase was even more crowded and slow going - it seemed a fool's errand to try and scale the stairs on the opposite side after finally reaching the bottom of the first staircase.
So, I wandered back through the vendors (by the way, if you can sell it, it was for sale on the street that night). I did not partake of the food, already feeling under the weather and not sure I trusted the food - or at least my stomach's ability to handle it, and went about looking for a taxi. Of course, in the stand still traffic with many others looking for a taxi, this was nearly impossible. So I looked toward the motor bike taxi operators. The first declined, and said as a farang, better to get a taxi. I think he was afraid I was going to freak out riding the motor bike - or he just didn't want to travel that far. The second motor bike driver I found agreed, though maybe slightly overcharged, at that point my headache was going full throttle from all the lights and I just wanted to get home. I still think there was some sort of divine intervention keeping me from having an absolute claustrophobic panic attack in the middle of that festival - or maybe I was just too out of it already from being sick. It was 100 baht for the motor bike ride straight to my apartments, not too bad considering the motor bike can duck and weave around traffic and get you where you are going much faster than the four-wheeled beasts. And a heck of a lot better than the tuk-tuk driver trying to charge twice that for less than a third the distance I traveled on the motor bike. We drove over yet another large bridge - I've got my north and south all mixed up so I can't say which direction I was from Rama VIII, but I got yet another view of all of the lights out across the river driving past. It was exhilarating having the wind rip past, nearly shutting my eyelids for me.
After all that, I took some more cold medicine and called it a night. And quite a night it was. My goal now: to save up and purchase a digital SLR before next year's Loy Krathong festival. I would love to see the festival in Chiang Mai. Also preferrably to not be sick during the festival - but the timing of getting sick is hard to coordinate.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)